GOLEGÃ NATIONAL LUSITANO HORSE FAIR

For horse lovers, the Golegã National Lusitano Horse Fair in Alentejo, Portugal is the place to see – and be seen.

Taking place over ten days in November each year, this is the heart of Lusitano country. And here you will see some of the most beautiful horses – their coats shining, and their heads held high as though they know just how stunning and special they are.

There are horses everywhere; from the side streets to the central square, from the bars to the discos, from the shops to the temporary stalls. Popping into a bar for a drink, I joined I queue of riders – on their horses – waiting to get to the bar while chatting with their mounted fellows.

Horses and people alike are dressed up in their finest. Tails and manes are plaited, light bounces off their coats, hooves are oiled, and saddles are buffed. And that applies to the people too! Everyone is looking their best; there to show off their steed and their skills.

Although most of the action takes place in the centre square, the surrounding streets are also busy with stalls selling equine paraphernalia as well as food and drink. People and horses mingle together – there is no separation of humans behind crash barriers or special lanes for horse and rider; everyone shares the streets together, and it’s your responsibility to ensure you don’t frighten the horses or get in their way.

The top class displays take place in the central arena; lean against the fence and enjoy the show from English dressage to military displays to in-hand work – the best Lusitano horses will be there.

Circling the outside of this is a track that people ride around – at varying speeds and levels of competency. If you wish to get to the central arena you have to run the gauntlet of crossing the track. Pick your moment as the horses and carriages won’t stop for you. If crossing feels like too much of a risk – don’t worry, you can pick a spot on the outer fence and enjoy the local riders showing off their horses and their own costumes. With women in elegant divided skirts (to allow them to sit astride the horse) and men in short jackets and tight trousers and everyone wearing black flat topped wide brimmed hats, the spectacle is mesmerising to watch.

Beyond the outside track there are stalls, covered shops, an indoor market and restaurants with the side streets spreading out from the centre offering bars and more food and equine related shops. So, if you feel peckish grab some salted roasted chestnuts, churros, or crepes and wash it all down with a glass of local wine.

This is not a place to pop in and out – you’ll need at least a day, and preferably and evening too. If you have the stamina, then there is plenty to keep you entertained into the early hours.

And it really is worth visiting both during the day and in the evening – as each offers quite a different experience. During the day you’ll see some of the Lusitano breeders showing off their top horses, join them for drinks and a chat about the breed. This is when contacts are made and relationships renewed. Although the aim of the fair is not about doing business, it’s clear that deals are done, or at the very least, discussed here.

The daytime hours have more of a ‘family’ feel, but as the sun goes down and the stars start to twinkle above, the fair takes on a party atmosphere. The breeders take their horses away (to give them a rest from the noise) and people on horseback line up at the bars drinking and chatting. The streets fill up with horse lovers and revellers – all enjoying the buzz and being among like-minded souls.

Although you can visit the fair without a guide, having a local with you, who understands the horses and knows the people, will certainly enhance the experience. I travelled with Judite from AtJuditeTour. Judite is passionate about Lusitano horses and knows all the top breeders and regular visitors to the Fair. She was able to explain what was happening, introduce me to people, and even sort out a table in the restaurant above the practice area.

If you are a rider yourself then it is possible to ride at the fair – however you’ll need to book in advance as tickets are limited and very popular. One way to be sure of your horse and a place on the outer track is to travel with a company like Lusitano Trail Rides. You can book a riding holiday, on a beautiful Lusitano horse, that will take you into Golega on horseback and give you the opportunity to ride the outer ring of the famous fair.

And while you are in Ribatejo, take some time to see the local area; take a trip down the Tagus River to the old fishing villages; stop off at the Museum Jose Relvas to see over-the-top porcelain and hear why one of the rooms will never be unlocked; visit the Natural Reserve of the Sorraia Horses and admire the two-tone ponies believed to be the ancestor of the Lusitano; and taste the wine at Quinta da Lagoalva. There is plenty to entertain you while the horses sleep.

 

FACT BOX

Visit Portugal: VisitPortugal.com/en

Visit Alentejo: VisitAlentejo.pt/en/

Lusitano Trail Rides: LusitanoTrailRides.com/

AtJuditeTour: Facebook.com/atjuditetour/

TAP Air Portugal flies direct from London Heathrow, Gatwick and Manchester to Lisbon up to 10 times a day, prices start at £92 return including all taxes and surcharges. For further information, visit flytap.com or call 0345 601 0932

 

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Chantal Cooke is an award-winning journalist and broadcaster and co-founder of PASSION for the PLANET. Chantal is passionate about tourism being used as a force for good.  You can follow her adventures on Facebook and Twitter @chantalcooke and on Instagram @Chantaldcooke